Apple Trees in Your Yard

I've been hearing rumors of successful apple 'testing' somewhere in Hot Southern Calif. And it looks like I found (one of?) the nursery(s). And they are pretty neat!
I'm assembling an order, http://www.kuffelcreek.com/appleorder.htm
This month is the only month of the year for orders - which is great since now is perfect for here! -- so get it now while the gettin's good.
They have a minimum order of 10 trees (which we have almost reached already), and a flat shipping fee, so ordering as a group is beneficial.

For those just looking to see which ones are recommended here's a list (not necessarily all, I'm just quoting from the kuffel creek):
Anna, Arkansas Black, Cripp's Pink/ Pink Lady, Fuji, Gala, William's pride,
Bramley, Dorsett Golden, Red Boskoop, and Sierra Beauty
(references also here, here, here, ...coming soon, Australian sites are great info sources, but remember winter=summer and summer=winter because of the southern hemisphere)

Reasons why these trees are desirable (and more desirable than the local stores)

• varieties specifically tested for our hot desert climate
  
• great price $10 + $1 shipping = $11
  
• correct time of year (unlike most nursery suppliers - which leads to ....'other' problems)
• form the tree comes in: bench graft (again, unlike any big nursery I've seen, but is something that is great)
  
• the rootstock (the portion of the tree/ the variety selected for the ground) is good for our climate and soils
  

Reasons why I am partial and think this particular company is "cool"

• They share their knowledge freely
  
• and keeps giving it
• and has more if so desired.
  
• upstanding efforts/motives
• small family owned,.... and all that goes with that....
• plants that have roots rock ;)
• They are testing 100s apples in the heat (and very mild winters) so we don't "have too": Part one of two videos of Dave Wilson Nursery interviewing KuffelCreek at their nursery in Riverside Calif - note also, the wide range of ripening seasons: Part 2 starts with honeycrisp.
  

Reasons to talk to your neighbors

• Because just like people, apple trees need friends too. Many apple trees will bear fruit without another apple tree, but
• most apple trees will bear much more and better/bigger fruit if there is another tree they can cross pollinate with (share pollen via the bees, etc)
• so, If you only want one tree, but your neighbor also only wants one tree, then now there are two
• however, if you get the same variety/type or (too) close relative of apple, cross pollination doesn't happen. So have a peak at the charts 1 and 2 and talk to your neighbor or just get two+ compatible trees.
  

Where to plant

• In a place that allows it to be flood watered or deeply watered, (don't want just surface roots, although most feeder roots are near the top, but going far out from the trunk)
• In a place that allows it the room to grow, possibly to full potential size without damaging houses, etc..., but certainly accessible so that a manageable size is easy to maintain. Some people refer to this method, but I'm not interested in this method, a forum may be a place to search for success of this method (or not successful results) OR
• In a place that doesn't have the room and is pruned in an obvious, simple way, such as cut to be espalier. Which is what I am excited about trying. link, link, link, link, link, link, link, link,... so many beautiful pictures for inspiration and directions.
  

How to Plant: It is simple and I'll help however I can, however this about covers it :

• As soon as it comes! Have the hole already dug with the dirt pre-watered and soft, but not still muddy. (roots need oxygen to breath in the ground too!)
  
• (Assuming you don't have some seriously large equipment and plan on doing a gargantuan hole and tilling in organic (dead) matter,) then just....
• keep it simple, don't add any 'extra' dirt, potting soil or anything. - our dirt is surprisingly suitable for growing - and the extra stuff in the whole may coddle the roots into staying and not reaching out for strength. (although unlikely with this particular type of rootstock and deep/wide watering)
  
• However, spreading that stuff out on top of the soil everywhere around it (think those mulch circles you've seen in 'wet' parts of the country) even if it is then covered in rocks, then water and worms will take it down with time to where it will help.

related:

• Keep generally moist, using a probe (metal rod that goes as deep down as the roots (2 ft+) make sure that you deep soak the tree, but not so wet that the roots are starved of air and rot.
  
• Don't fertilize a baby tree at all - they don't want to be thinking about bursts of green growth until their roots are re-established. (see below), However; a truly wonderful and appropriate fertilizer, folar-fed, would be good as a well balanced support. Putting the fertilizer in water and spraying it on (the underside of) the leaves increases absorption by ~80%. (more bang for your buck)
• Don't use synthetic fertilizers such as Miracle Grow -They have that quick burst of results, but (especially when overdosed) will be shortening the life of your soil/life of your plants. And without a "whole food" concept in both the soil and plant, it is actually weakening them, leaving them susceptible to the Planet's cleaners (like predators that take out the weak = the bugs/diseases search out, eat the weak plants).
  
• We're doing a bulk buy of fertilizer (hopefully) this month ....Its- like- totally- the- coolest- and like- way- awesomest- fertilizer- ever (really!)
  
• But I'll give info regarding plant nutrition and frugal, effective ....and ... stuff ... in that email/post.